IRISES Tall Bearded, Intermediate Bearded, Dwarf Bearded, Japanese, Siberian, Louisiana, Spuria
PEONIES
DAYLILIES
IRISES
BEARDED IRIS
Our bearded irises include tall bearded iris, intermediate bearded iris, and dwarf bearded iris varieties. These are larger clumps with 2-4 fans. These are dug bare root, potted for you to plant at home with planting instructions provided. You may also order plants for August –September when we divide iris.
We have extended our inventory of Siberian iris, Japanese iris, Louisiana iris, and water iris for sale in 1 and 2 gallon pots. Spuria iris can be found on display, but are not yet for sale.
WHERE TO PLANT
Plant iris in at least half day sun. Soil must have good drainage. It is important when planting iris, to plant either on a slope or in raised beds. No water should be allowed to stand in the iris planting beds.
SOIL PREPARATION
If soil is heavy, coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage.
DISTANCE APART
Iris are generally planted 12-24 inches apart. Close planting gives an immediate full effect, but closely planted iris will need to be thinned often.
DEPTH TO PLANT
Iris should be planted so that the tops of the iris rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing downward in the soil. In very light soils or in extremely hot climates, covering the rhizomes with 1” of soil may be desirable. Firm the soil around each rhizome and then water to help settle the soil. A common mistake is to plant iris too deeply.
WATERING
Newly planted iris need moisture to help their root systems become established. Specific watering requirements depend on your climate and soil, but keep in mind that deep watering at long intervals is better than more frequent shallow waterings. Once established, irises normally do not need to be watered except in arid areas – too much water can cause root rot.
TALL BEARDED IRIS
DESCRIPTION 
Tall bearded iris are the tallest and showiest varieties, with magnificent large, 6” plus blooms on stems 28-36 inches high. They are the latest blooming of the bearded iris available in an incredible variety of colors, patterns and combinations.
REQUIREMENTS
Tall bearded irises do best in full sun. The soil must have good drainage and no water should be allowed to stand in the iris bed. Plant the rhizomes 24-36 inches apart so that the tops of the rhizomes are exposed and the roots are spread out facing down. DO NOT plant tall bearded iris too deep and make sure to water in.
INTERMEDIATE IRIS
DESCRIPTION
Intermediate iris bloom after dwarf irises and grow 18-24 inches. These shorter versions of tall bearded will add weeks of blooms to your iris or perennial beds. Intermediate iris foliage, flower size and stalks are all in proportion to their reduced size.
REQUIREMENTS
Bearded irises do best in full sun. The soil must have good drainage with no water allowed to stand in the bed. Plant 18-24 inches apart so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed a little and the roots are spread out facing down. DO NOT plant irises too deep and make sure to water in after planting intermediate iris.
DWARF BEARED IRIS
DESCRIPTION
Growing 8-14 inches in height, dwarf bearded iris are the first iris to bloom in the spring, usually at the same time as tulips and daffodils. Dwarf bearded iris are very hardy, tough plants for use in rock gardens or in front of perennial beds.
REQUIREMENTS
Dwarf bearded irises do best in full sun. The soil must have good drainage with no water allowed to stand in the bed. Plant 12-18 inches apart so the tops of the rhizomes are exposed a little and the roots are spread out facing down. DO NOT plant dwarf bearded iris too deep and make sure to water in after planting dwarf iris.
JAPANESE IRIS
DESCRIPTION
Japanese iris grow on 30-48” stalks with narrow leaves and display large, beautiful blooms. Japanese iris bloom after tall bearded iris with some Japanese varieties blooming into late August. About six weeks of bloom can be had with the selection of different Japanese varieties.
REQUIREMENTS
Japanese iris can be divided in early September and roots should never be allowed to dry out. Japanese iris can grow in 3-4” of water and along the margins of ponds and streams. However, they can grow in a well-watered perennial bed. Planting Japanese iris in 2-3” deep acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal. The Japanese iris bed should be deeply prepared and super phosphate is a good fertilizer to use.
After planting, keep roots watered for 2 weeks and mulch with 2” of mulch, adding more each spring. The Japanese iris roots will grow up to the surface and should be replanted every 3-4 years.
SIBERIAN IRIS
DESCRIPTION
Siberian iris are beardless with slender, graceful stems and foliage. Stems range from 2-4’ tall with flowers from 2-6” in diameter. Siberian iris bloom around the same time as tall bearded iris. 
REQUIREMENTS
Roots must never be allowed to dry out. Siberian iris grow fast and make nice clumps in short order. Siberian iris should be divided every 4 years or so.
They do not like to stand in water, but do well on the edge of a pond or stream, or in a bed with lots of organic matter.
Plant the crown about 1 inch deep and keep plants mulched year round, a little heavier in winter for new plants.
Remove Siberian iris seed pods before they mature so you do not have seedlings growing in your flower beds. Cut stalks to the ground when foliage turns brown.
LOUISIANA IRIS
DESCRIPTION
Louisiana iris are rapid growers that reach a height of approximately 3’ with flowers growing 6-8” above the fans. Louisiana iris bloom at about the same time as tall bearded iris.
REQUIREMENTS
Louisiana iris require moist, acidic soil and can grow in shallow water. They should be planted in the fall before frost and in an area that dries out in winter as freezing in ice can be fatal. Louisiana iris rhizomes should never dry out, should be watered heavily at first planting and continue watering during growing season. After Louisiana iris bloom, keep iris watered in summer or flood the bed once in awhile.
During the spring and summer Louisiana iris grown in garden beds absolutely require at least 3” of mulch and before winter 8-10” of mulch should be added.
Plants should be divided about every other year in September.
SPURIA IRIS
DESCRIPTION
Spuria iris are beardless and are one of the tallest of iris types. Typical Spuria iris hybrids are 4-5’ tall and usually bloom soon after most bearded iris. Most spuria iris are summer dormant and can lose their leaves during hot weather.
PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS
Spuria iris should be planted far enough apart to allow room for growth as they do not like being transplanted. Spacing rhizomes approximately 3’ apart is suggested. Good drainage is vital and heavy clay based soil rich in organic matter is required. Acidity or alkalinity does not appear to be important as long as extremes are avoided.
Spuria have two periods of growth, spring and fall, with dividing and planting in New Jersey to take place in late summer (August).
Plant spuria iris rhizomes a few inches deep. If you water well when planting, there should be little need for further watering.
Winter mulch new spuria iris plants and also mulch in the spring.
PEONIES
DESCRIPTION
Peonies are among the most beautiful flowers you can grow, adding fantastic blossoms to your garden in early summer. They are hardy perennials with long life expectancies that will continue to grow despite neglect as long as they have good drainage.
Peonies, like roses, date back to ancient times and have found their way into the artwork of almost every culture throughout the ages.
There are many reasons for growing peonies in your garden, among them fragrance and color.
While some may have no scent, fragrant peonies, especially doubles, give a very strong and pleasant scent to the garden. Peonies range in color from shades of white through numerous pinks, roses, and dark reds. Peonies make spectacular cut flowers, but it is best not to cut all the blossoms from your plants, especially young plants. Peony foliage is attractive even absent of flowers.
TYPES
Although peonies are found in dozens of varieties, the primary are herbaceous peonies and tree peonies.
Herbaceous, paeonia lactiflora, is the Chinese peony - a native of Siberia which has large, rich blossoms. Like many perennials, peonies die back in the fall. People are sometimes reluctant to grow peonies despite their beauty as they remember those flopping over in grandma’s garden. However, new peony varieties offer a huge selection, one no longer has to contend with staking stems. Many newer peony varieties are more compact with stronger stems without sacrificing beauty. In addition, rock garden peonies, short in height 15-20 inches tall, are compact and loaded with flowers, bloom earlier, and fit in nicely with shrubs and perennials, with foliage that is interesting even after bloom.
Tree peonies, paeonia suffructicosa, are deciduous shrubs that shed their leaves in the fall. They generally range in height from 3-4 feet with some taller or shorter depending on variety, including those as much as 6 feet in height. Originally cultivated by the Chinese who developed them with large, double flowers. They were changed by the Japanese into peonies with lighter, simpler flowers.
Intersectional peonies are crosses between herbaceous and tree peony forms in numerous colors with several striking yellow shades that are expensive due to their rarity.
REQUIREMENTS
We carry both herbaceous (standard and dwarf) and tree peony plants. Some potted peony plants will be available for sale in the spring and orders can be placed in fall to purchase once dividing peonies is finished.
Peony roots may be planted anytime from late August through late March when the ground isn’t frozen. However, the ideal time for planting peonies or transplating peonies is late August through November. Herbaceous peonies do best in sunny, well drained locations, but will tolerate partial shade. Too much shade, however, will reduce the quality and amount of peony blooms.
Soak peony roots in water for six hours before planting if they were allowed to dry out. Till the soil well before planting peonies. It is best to cultivate and mix compost before planting. After preparing the soil, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the peony root system. It is very important that the peony eyes be about two inches below the soil surface. Place the root in the hole, fill with soil, tamp gently, and water thoroughly.
Spacing should be 3 to 4’ between each peony plant. Mulching the new roots the first winter is suggested. Late fall planting in colder areas should be mulched and/or mounded with extra soil, and the extra soil or mulch should be removed come spring.
Peonies should not be over-fertilized for this may reduce flowering. Any good, complete garden fertilizer that is not too rich in nitrogen would be fine. It should be applied when spring foliage is around 6-8” tall and placed around the drip line of the leaves. Rose food and conservative applications of bone meal are ideal for peonies.
They tolerate dryness but when watering peonies avoid the base of the stems, instead water at the circumference of the leaf canopy to reach the outer half of the root area.
Things to look for if your peonies do not flower are if plants are too young or small, too crowded, planted too deep, too much shade, late freeze, chemical imbalance in the soil (not enough phosphorous or potassium, or too much nitrogen), or disease.
Botrytis is the most common disease problem and is most prevalent during wet seasons. Watch for young shoots that have rotted off at the base and have developed a gray mold early in the season. Blasted peony buds or peony blooms are also indications of infection. Careful sanitation is the most important aspect of controlling botrytis fungus. Regular inspection of the plant and removal of any infected leaves is the best procedure for control. When foliage turns brown in the late fall, it can be cut back to the ground and discarded. This prevents carryover of any foliage disease spores that might be present.
DAYLILIES
DESCRIPTION
Daylilies are some of the easiest, forgiving, long-lasting perennials. Daylilies take a wide range of conditions and while preferring full sun, they will tolerate a little shade. Daylilies are not picky about soil—put in a few shovels of compost and they will be happy. They don’t like competition from trees and shrubs, but love to be among other perennials.
With a small dose of general fertilizer in spring, regular watering while in bloom, and a regular application of mulch daylilies will last for years. They can be planted throughout the growing season from spring through fall as long as care is taken in watering if planting daylilies in summer months.
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